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Boxelder bugs become a seasonal headache in fall. These flat, mostly black and red insects swarm on sunny walls and look for cracks to slip inside the house. As a registered technician with four years of experience in pest control, I’ve learned how to get rid of boxelder bugs and keep the bugs away.
Each fall, adult boxelder bugs congregate on south- and west-facing walls. Boxelder bugs are attracted to heat. They often land on light-colored siding around windows and doors. You might even spot clusters around doors.
They feed on seedpods of female boxelder trees and on maple trees and ash trees (per Virginia Cooperative Extension). In late summer, you may see masses on boxelder or maple trees in your yard. Even if you don’t have a host tree on your property, boxelder bugs can travel blocks to find shelter. If you have female boxelder trees nearby, it’s likely attracting boxelder bugs.
Sometimes called boxelder beetles, these bugs are true bugs in hemiptera (UTIA publication). Even though these bugs are invasive, they don’t cause damage to ornamental plants. This pest can be a major nuisance when they swarm around your home looking for warmth as they overwinter. I’ve treated many an infestation up and down the Mid-Atlantic.
For help with ID, see our Spot the Red and Black Beetle: Boxelder Bug Identification Guide.
A single boxelder bug has a flat body that holds heat from the sun. The box elder bug gets its name from the box elder tree. Adults are half an inch long, mostly black with red wing margins. Nymphs are bright red and smaller. Don’t confuse them with brown marmorated stink bugs—a stink bug is broader. Boxelder bugs like hiding under bark and cracks. Boxelder bugs may also find food on plums or apples when seeds are scarce. Some people mistake them for boxelder beetles, but they’re true bugs in hemiptera.
In spring, overwintered adults emerge and fly back to trees. They lay eggs near leaf buds, but boxelder bugs don’t reproduce inside homes. In summer, nymphs feed on seed pods as they fall. As autumn cools, groups of boxelder bugs cluster on warm walls and soon slip through cracks around doors and windows to overwinter (per University of Maryland Extension). Many hide in an attic vent, beneath fascia boards, or another small way inside. On unseasonably warmer temperatures, you might spot bugs near windows. Remember, bugs aren’t dangerous if seen indoors.
Learn more at Are Boxelder Bugs Harmful? What to Know About Box Elder Bugs.
One of the first signs of an infestation is seeing them in large numbers on trees. A congregation of bugs on a trunk signals they’re feeding. Boxelder bugs become abundant near seed-rich branches each fall. While they resemble brown marmorated stink bugs, they’re narrower and more flattened. Rather than a stink bug, boxelder bugs feed by piercing seeds. Boxelder bugs also hide on host branches, but cause little harm.
To find where bugs are getting in, look for entry points in your walls and foundation. Bugs can enter through gaps under siding or around vent openings. Inspect around the perimeter for cracks under fascia and near your door thresholds. Rake fallen leaves and seedpods away, then seal gaps around doors and windows with caulk and weather stripping.
In small numbers indoors, use a vacuum to clear boxelder bugs quickly. A shop vac is great for collecting both adults and nymphs without squashing them. After cleanup, dump them outside in a sealed bag. Avoid smashing because boxelder bugs release a foul odor.
Mix a few drops of dish soap or dawn dish soap with warm water for a soapy water solution. You can mix dish soap into a spray or pour soap into a spray bottle for easy use. A simple soap and water mix can work on small clusters. Then spray clusters, letting the mix cling and kill on contact.
To blast bugs outside, use a strong stream of water from a hose. This washes clusters off your siding and stops them from regrouping. Do it on cool mornings before they move in. Then collect seedpods beneath your trees so fewer bugs return.
If non-chemical steps fail, you can use an insecticide or pesticide spray on clusters outdoors. Products with pyrethrins offer quick knockdown. You can also apply diatomaceous earth dust around entry points. These options follow control tips that minimize impact on your property.
Some pros apply dust in weep holes and behind siding strips before cold weather. A perimeter spray around the foundation can intercept bugs before they crawl inside. Licensed technicians use products that passed our internal research for reduced risk (US Forest Service).
If DIY methods don’t do the trick, consider removing the source or calling an expert. Our registered technicians can inspect hidden gaps, apply targeted treatments, and advise on long-term fixes. We cover DC, VA, and MD, including Northern Virginia Pest Control and Ashburn Pest Control.
Proper exclusion and yard care prevent future problems. Clean debris around the home and under host trees. Fill gaps with caulk and add weather stripping to doors. These methods reduce the number of overwintering adults and help keep boxelder bugs outside. Eliminating seedpods, the main source of food, also helps. If seeding is heavy and gaps persist, consider removing those female boxelder trees.
Inspect all foundation cracks and siding joints. Use silicone caulk or steel wool to seal tiny gaps. Install door sweeps and repair torn screens on vent and soffit openings. This barrier blocks bugs before they enter your living spaces.
Trim back limbs that touch your house. Rake and remove seedpods from boxelder and other maples. For a long-term fix, you might plant seedless male boxelder cultivars instead of female trees. This cuts the local breeding cycle.
Check your home in late summer before the big fall move. Keep leaves and debris clear under trees and along foundations. A quick perimeter check each month keeps the worst outbreak from happening.
We’re a third-generation team with over 50 years in the DMV. Our registered technicians blend family know-how and modern methods. I’ve personally tackled hundreds of boxelder bug cases across the region.
All products we use are EPA approved and chosen by our in-house research team. We offer no binding contracts, free callbacks, and seasonal treatments using Borate-based solutions, Essentria, and more. Let us help you get rid of boxelder bugs and keep them away.
If you see boxelder bugs clustering, take action at once. Ready to learn more? Call us with any questions or for an estimate at 703-683-2000 or email [email protected]
Permanent control relies on sealing and habitat changes. Fill gaps, remove seedpods, and maintain yard cleanliness. Over time, fewer bugs find shelter and invade.
Yes. A mix of warm water and Dawn dish soap suffocates bugs on contact. Apply directly on clusters for quick results.
An infestation starts when large groups gather on sunny walls near seed-bearing trees. Gaps in siding and windows and doors let them slip inside to overwinter.
Bleach can kill on contact but is not recommended. It risks damage to siding, plants, and indoor surfaces. Use soapy water or vacuums instead.
No. Boxelder bugs aren’t dangerous, they don’t bite or transmit disease. Crushing them will stain surfaces and release odor, so handle carefully.
Boxelder bugs don’t lay eggs indoors. They need seedpods for eggs, so they overwinter in walls and exit in spring without breeding inside.
Insecticides can kill those you hit, but they rarely stop new bugs entering if gaps remain. Sealing and physical removal are more reliable.
With five years of hands-on experience in the pest control industry, George Schulz is a registered technician with the Virginia Pest Management Association and a proud third-generation professional in a family business that’s been protecting homes for over 57 years. He manages and trains a team of service pros while also leading internal research efforts—recently spearheading a deep-dive review of thousands of documents on pest control materials to hand-pick the most kid and pet friendly, most effective solutions tailored specifically for homes in the DC metro area. Read his bio.
